March 04 - First full day in Spain and "The Final Countdown", plus twigs!

Feelings of the Day: During our first trip to Spain, two years ago, we were in major communities of sizeable populations. The smallest was Toledo at just under 90k. Almazan, having 5k, was quite small but it had just about everything one would need for day to day living and a couple hours drive from everything else. I smiled a lot walking through this community because everything seemed just right.

Full Day’s Events: After a very good sleep, a too huge pot of oatmeal, coffee, toast, and more coffee we were off to the market by the Duero River and just outside the city walls. On the way, and from our walkabout yesterday, I noted that Almazan is quite walkable but you still need to know its twists and turns. This town is not built on a grid pattern. Anyway, at the market many modern-day merchants had vegetables, fruit, and clothing on display. We picked up various items for lunches and suppers, food that is and not clothes. I picked up anchovy stuffed olives. Spoiler: They were delicious! 

      We also had a side trip to see if a truffle hunter had any items available at their home. Our friends and hosts are hoping for a callback. Last stop of the morning was a carniceria (butchers) for lamb that evening and some quail for later in the week. All these things, within an easy walk, were a joy to accomplish while providing good exercise. 

      Lunch was prepared with some of the items purchased that day along with lettuce and tomatoes, jamon (ham) and Spanish cheeses. The pan (bread) was made by the master maker of our friends, J, using the bread oven in their residence. This tasty fuel prepared us for an afternoon of foraging for firewood, as we were low on dry sticks for good kindling. We crossed the Duero (Douro once it crosses into Portugal) and headed a short way North to an area that provided an abundance of free sticks from deadwood and pinecones for starters. We would have good fires for several days with this haul and I thought that what we were doing were what folks have been doing for millenia to keep their home heath warm and provide fire for cooking.

      After a short stop at a much larger supermarket, patrolled by three cats, it was still early when we returned. We decided another walk was in order for more sights to be revealed for my wife and I. We saw some spots that we had seen yesterday at night. New places seen were the mirador (viewpoint) off the Plaza Mayor that was a marvellously constructed observation deck, town hall TI (Tourist Information) that had on display some Middle Ages paintings from a church screen of saints, and some children playing futbol (soccer) in the square.

  

       Back at home base we chatted, drank some vermouth I had bought, and observed supper preparations. There is something so elegant about the warm culinary hug that roasted vegetables have with lamb chops on top when in the oven together. A supper made with a friendship among foods that was eaten among friends. If you have not got the jist yet, the meal was amazing.

      For our evening walk, to see the sights and aid in digestion, we walked along the city walls along the Douro side. Besides the magnificent sight of yellow tinted light shining on walls (made before my ancestors left France, Britain, and Scotland for North America) we were treated to an untrained, yet heartfelt, rendition of the 80’s song “The Final Countdown”. The lady singing was young, wearing earbuds, colourful clothing, a felt cape, and carried a drum. We passed her by again in the Plaza Mayor where, instead of singing, she was playing for no audience but the snoozing birds in alcoves along the square and random passersby going home or a nightcap at a bar. Quite the embrasure of the magical moments of life, she has. Perhaps we could learn from her enthusiasm. 

      Although we were passing by, it was not a nightcap we sought but…cookies at Pastelería Confitería Yemas Almarza (Pastry Confectionery Yolks of Almarza)! There was quite the cacophony of tasty looking things to assault the senses. Sampling them that night we experienced the skill and love of the time-honored cookie making craft. Another wonderful day. 11.4km and 32 flights of stairs walked.