Feelings of the Day: Sometimes the environment is with you and sometimes not. Regardless of some people’s opinion, we are not made of icing sugar. When encountering the extremes you could make the call and stay indoors during a bad weather day or just press on. I prefer pressing on.
Full Day’s Events: The presence of a tourist’s worst nemesis, dihydrogen monoxide, was on the agenda whether we wanted it or not. The local zephyr deity was also out celebrating by dancing among the drops that were flinging themselves to earth. The combination caused umbrellas to be flung away from holders hands or turned inside out if their strength was up to task. As our day went on, the wastebasket in the central square became more filled with leftover bones of failed fabric protectors. Even the locals were apologetic for its impact upon the day.
Us four Canadians were made of sterner stuff. We made a successful outing for breakfast at the La Flor de Castilla location of the Santa Teresa sweet pastry shop. Also known as the Flower of Castile, the 150 years old location of the original bakery, was famous for its yemas (pastries using eggs). I had avocado, turkey, and tomato paste on toast with jugo de naranja (fresh orange juice) a yemas and coffee con leche. The staff here was super friendly and gregarious. After a quick return to our accommodations, we heard Avila calling through the rain and wind. We did not want to postpone seeing the sights…
…except we were foiled. Because of the weather, a walk on the walls of Avila was denied us because of safety concerns. Bah! Time for an indoor activity, so Jane picked the Basilica and birthplace of Saint Theresa of Avila, a Christian mystic who was important to the spiritual and monastic revival in the counter reformation era and canonized only 40 years after her death. I love me a mystic so we walked through the wind and the rain. The building and square around the Basilica looked picturesque, the doors were open, and we were walking to them when…
…a gent stopped me, wagged his finger and said, ”No. Cerrado.” With my dangling raised hands, I wiggled my digits and had them slowly drop. “Rain?” He affirmed my guess that there was outside moisture on the inside. Rod’s pick was a more robust structure and the toughest and biggest one in this medieval city, as in most medieval cities: the Cathedral of Avila. Started in 1091 and finished in the 15th century, it was one of the first Gothic cathedrals in Spain. I like historical architecture and art. Every religious building of worship has something a little different and the building and decorating of those buildings were a major employment for the trades and artists. The Cathedral sits in the plaza mayor of Avila and while walking towards it we saw people going in and...
…not coming back out! Either they were falling into the rumoured lake beneath Avila or it was open. We hoped it was the latter and found that assumption was true. I do have to be honest about the front half of this Cathedral. It was nice, not great, except for some parts of its architecture, but nice. However the central nave, and in particular the ambulatory in the back, were wonderfully done. The pixelated mosaic of colours used in the walls and ceiling were unique from the many religious buildings we had seen. The friezes were masterfully made.
After a lunch back at our accommodations, the sky was opening up and tempting photons from our sun were more prominent. If we could not walk on the walls then we would walk around them! The structure and solidity were undeniable and impressive. The slow curves of the towers were artfully done and the green grass beside the wall, along with the distant looks at the landscape beyond the urban blocks, were calming. I could see the age of the surrounding areas providing a flow chart of time as the old gave way to the new, with some exceptions. A monastery here. A convent there. A mill by the river. A block of tenements or houses just 150 years old. European cities have this chronological thread in their architecture that is not present in Canadian communities, unless an effort is made to preserve the past. It’s what makes traveling to areas of the world that do give this feeling of time interesting and enjoyable to me. It was a good afternoon.
We also came back around to Saint Teresa’s Basilica and they were open! A nice interior with different sculpture and art from different eras. Enjoyable and I may read some of Teresa’s works because I love me a mystic.
Resting in our accommodations we went for a little wine and tapas at Blin Blin Wine, a small establishment that serves natural wines (no extra enhancement or filtering) with knowledgeable staff and tasty snacks.
We returned to our accommodations, because our main meal establishment did not open until 830pm, as many restaurants in Mediterranean countries do. We were glad for the wait because Taberna de los Verdugo was a step above for gastronomic tapas and small bites: Cannelloni with Avilanian Cheeks, Scallop Carpaccio with Avocado, Rice with Oxtail, Salmon sashimi with tiger's milk, Cabrales Cheesecake made with sheep's cheese and Red Fruit Tart. Everything served was different, a combination of flavours, and a welcome end to a spinny day. 8.1km walked and the equivalent of 37 flights of stairs climbed.
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