Our stomachs speaking to us and internal energy supplies waning, we walked back in the direction to the centre of Rome. Looking at my electronic map of researched places there were several options, but we dismissed them all once we looked at their menus. We decided the classics were best so went into the cool vibe F.lli Trecca - Circo Massimo. We ordered two white ( one thin potatoes, cheese and rosemary. The second cheese and pulverized broccoli) and two red pizzas (one tomato, eggplant, and garlic. The second sliced asparagus with anchovies). They cut each of them in half for us and they were incredibly good and inexpensive.
There was also an interesting interaction between an American or Canadian who was telling off a woman who sat beside him from outside, with her pizzas as he was in line. I kept my ear and eye open in case this was potential verbal going into physical abuse between a couple. The more I listened to what he was saying, then talking out loud while in line, and finally speaking with the dude behind the counter while pointing at her I realized what it could be: pickpocket or honeytrap. Apparently, she had sat down beside him when he had his first slice and chatted him up, then she moved to his table and he wasn’t interested so moved inside while we were getting our pizzas. Lastly, she moved inside with her remaining pizza slice and sat down beside where he put his jacket. I suspect a honeytrap because no pickpocket takes that long, they just move on. It could also mean she was genuinely interested in him and wouldn’t take no for an answer. The mystery will remain unsolved although there are clues.
Walking North we took some back streets and came upon the back entrance to the Palatine hill and Roman Forum. Because admission included a colosseum entrance, at a reserved time two hours from now, we discussed and said why not. We walked around a bit of the Forum first then proceeded to the hill and remarked how things looked different. New places to go, new way up through the calvary capable ramps, and new exhibits…which is where we hit a snag. Different from 14 years ago when we visited this site, and the colosseum, we now found out there was a tiered ticket system: the more you paid the more special places you could go into. Great Caesar's Ghost! Why they didn’t mention this scheme when we bought our tickets I didn’t know. It could have been there are only a certain number sold each day or the ticket seller just forgot. 11 years ago, you could go into all those places. Ah well. For those who go to this site buy the ticket that fits your interest.
Regardless of the restrictions it was great to see the place again and the new areas they had opened for visitor access. The Palatine hill in particular provided views we had not seen before. Wonderful.
Heading to the Colosseum, we passed the fount gate and if we came by that route, we wouldn’t have gone in. There must have been at least 150 people in line! They would be hard pressed to see the site for the first time within the three hours and a bit they had left. Then again, they might not have been the enthusiasts of history my wife and I were.
Once at the colosseum everything went smoothly. New to us was the route you could take as it was one way for most of the walk: go up to the first level and walk around then go up to the second level and walk around with little displays here and there. If you had the special ticket you could go to a platform at one end that would have been at the same level as the gladiators, animals, prisoners, and Christians. A bit extra and you could walk under where the arena level would have been where the performers would have been preparing for or recovering/dying from the events. A little bit extra more and you can take an elevator to level four onto a platform and look out on the masses like an emperor! We just had the normal ticket and we were happy with that as it was still the Colosseum! I do remember more gladiator focused displays 14 years ago, but they have to change it up as more information is discovered.
Burning some more calories, we slowly walked back past the forums of Augustus and Trajan, including the latter’s column of the awesome things he did and barbarians he quelled, and saw that a new subway station was being added here. They also found new ruins and artifacts, many of which will remain in situ and the subway structure built around it. Hooray for being careful with history!
Continuing our walk back, we stopped at a well-reviewed place, Ostia Hedera. The breaded and fried zucchini flowers were tasty and smooth on the inside. The pasta with parmesan, pepper and olive oil was alright but the chicken with black olives was delicious. We got a special Prosecco too that was nice with a more complex flavour which, if you were making a mimosa, would spit the orange juice back at you if you tried combining the two. We walked 15.8 kms today and climbed 16 levels of stairs! Our longest yet on this trip.
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