Feeling of the Day: Nature amongst Man. Sometimes nature is embraced for whatever it gives. Sometimes Nature is wrestled to the ground or removed entirely for something else to take its place. I like a little bit of grass I can wiggle my toes in, but beyond that I prefer the nature that’s local around me.
Full Day’s Events: Tivoli! We left our place in Rome, with most of our luggage there, to spend a night in Tivoli to see three places. First on the list was Hadrian’s Villa, in Adriana, which is right nearby Tivoli.
Built in 120 CE, it is over a square kilometre in size and contains wonderful remains of architecture, statues, and examples of Roman Villa life…amped up to 11. Unlike other leisure villas of nobles and emperors this place also had areas for work. There are 80 hectares enclosed as the main site, as much is still unexcavated, with 500 hectares surrounding it as a buffer zone. Both Natalie and I often commented that the blending of historical buildings and nature, on and around the site, was incredibly beautiful and calming.
Town of Tivoli in the distance.
This place had it all: Squares, baths, theatre, temples, philosopher’s hall, hospital, separate Greek and Latin libraries, residences, Nymphaeum, gymnasium, private quarters, guest quarters, visitor’s quarters, observatory…it just goes on and on. It was a wonderful place to visit and walk around with hardly anyone there. I felt extremely fortunate to be able to experience this place. The vibes were a great start to the day. A recommended place to visit where you will likely spend 2-3 hours.
We walked to the nearest bus stop, as we saw how much higher in elevation Tivoli was, and while waiting got a cold pizza from a shop. The bus did not take long to travel up to Tivoli, but we were so glad we took it. Once in the centre, we checked our navigation and walked the short distance to Villa d’Este.
Born in 1509 and as grandson of Pope Alexander the fourth and son of Lucrezia Borgia, Ippolito d’Este the second dreamed big. Being archbishop of Milan at age 10, and advisor to King Francis the first of France at 27, he was made a cardinal of Rome at 30. After his first failed attempt to become pope, he tried five more times during his life, and was offered the governorship of Tivoli. Liking antiquities and art, and excavations of nearby Hadrien’s villa starting, he accepted. The seat of the Cardinal’s governorship was a former convent of the Benedictines and as one of the richest cardinals of the time he declared it wasn’t big enough. Between 1563 and after his death the gardens and residence were built and incorporated hydro engineering for its fountains that had not been seen until this time. It has seen long periods of neglect and decline, with bursts of interest, until after WW1 when the Italian state acquired it and began major restoration. It is regarded as a major influence of garden design in Europe and, when it was neglected, was a favourite site to visit during the romantic period.
We had seen Villa d’Este on several history programs and one Monty Don television show and thought it would be fun for an hour. Two and a half hours later we were amazed by the pomp and pizzaz of the place. It is definitely an example of man over nature as everything living had been contorted to fit amongst the marble and fountains where it lives in a constantly clipped stage of existence. Such a contrast with the casual nature within and around Hadrian’s Villa.
We remotely checked into our residence and were given a combination for the lock, at Fontana di Pegaso, which borders the Villa d’Este. It meant that while the gardens were open we would hear the spitting waters of the fountains there, which was nice. We lounged and went out for a casual paseo (evening walk) as we were hungry as our last meagre shared pizza was many hours ago. We tried to get into the Taverna di Dracula, but they were closed, so we stopped at the promising Enoteca Gadi. With a wine each, olives, chips, and rings of crunchy cracker like things it made our immediate hunger sated.
Making another Paseo, we really enjoyed the chaotic nature of the streets and directions. Google and apple navigating apps were not accurate, but isn’t that part of the fun of travel?
Restaurante Sibilla has been located next to the Temples Sibilla and Vesta on the cliff side of Tivoli for just over 300 years in various incarnations. Now it is a fine dining establishment that serves great food. We shared an antipasto of cod in tomato sauce which was followed by fried calamari and shrimp. Natalie’s dish was braised ground lamb with broccoli and parmesan crisp and I had roasted seabass with chicory. Our wine was a People Cesanese grape from Lazio made by the Poggio Le Volpi vineyard. Everything was lovely. 11.6 km and 49 flights walked.
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