Feelings of the Day: Guidebooks can only do so much. Rick Steves is our go to for getting a feel of the places we travel to and the best recommendations. That is why we like walking around so much. It is to see what would not have been seen in public transportation of a taxi. Curated tours put blinders on you.
Full Day’s Events: We decided to go up to the North side of Rome, to the East of the Borghese Gardens. On the way we saw interesting buildings and the Aurelian walls, built between 271 and 275 CE, but we saw no barbarians lurking outside the gates. What we did find - when looking for coffee, a snack, and a bathroom - was Pasticceria Natalizi.
Stepping into the shop it was like going back in time to the 50’s or 60’s, in a nice way. There was the cashier, who seemed to own the place, two gents in uniforms at the coffee bar with sandwiches under the glass counter, and two ladies at the pastry and chocolate counter, also wearing uniforms. Our treats and coffee were excellent with fresh nuance between the different little bites. Also, very affordable for the quality. Doing some research, it turns out I had the wrong decade for the place as it was established in 1921 and has been in the family for three generations. When you paid the cashier asked the staff at the coffee bar and pastry bar what you ordered and then the cashier rang up the bill. Cool.
Quartiere Coppedè was a short walk away and we marvelled as we approached. In 1921 the five buildings here were designed by Gino Coppede in the Art Nouveau style. Each structure was unique in colour and nuance, but together there was a style that made them flow and accentuate each one. We were glad we saw them.
Time for lunch! Natalie wisely noticed a lack of edible items on the main road we were on, as they were mostly government buildings, offices, and hotels. We veered two blocks into the neighbourhood and found a perfect place: Ristorante Mangiafuoco Pizza & Grill. For 15 euros you got some snacks, a choice of pizza, and dessert. As we were not totally hungry, because of Natalizi, we went with one 15 euro special and the zucchini flower & anchovy pizza. It was very good, not very salty, and hit the spot. They gave us two desserts each, for some reason, and they were fruit and custard. When using the bathroom, you had to go through their below ground full-service restaurant, which looked fancier. Doing research now, I was right and it is an experimental and robust restaurant downstairs. Pretty cool.
Another underground place was calling to us, about a kilometre away: the Catacombs of Priscilla. On land donated by the wealthy Priscilla, it became a network of 13 km of tunnels on four levels from the 2nd to 4th centuries CE. There are some of the earliest Christian frescoes of bible stories that exist in particular of Christian women. Its entrance is in the cloister of a Benedictine order. Many images here have been contested and debated as to what stories or people they represent. To see what the catacombs looked like, click this image search on the place.
Tour done we left the very cool underground as it was time to walk back to our place for a special night. Getting dressed up, tonight was our special supper at a Michelin rated establishment: Achilli al Parlamento Ristorante Enoteca. It is a wine and spirit place in frount and fine dining at the back. They also had bottles of all kinds of beverages in the restaurant area in case you felt the need to celebrate further.
We ordered the eight-course tasting menu with one wine accompaniment, which we shared between us. We also thought that the sommelier gave us both a bit more than a half pours each, in particular because he could tell we were enjoying it and my wife was impressing him with her wine knowledge. Other tables around us were either not mentioning the food at all or having family drama, so our attentiveness at what was put in front of us made us stand out for the staff. Here is what was served for several hours:
-At the start they served a Ferghettina Franciacorta Brut for Natalie and the same winery’s Rose for me. It was nice and light with fruity flavours.
-Amuse bouche: chicken liver croquette, house made focaccia with anchovy and lime crema, and macaron with ham cream and ham bits.
-Amuse bouche #2 was a crunchy sourdough. With that pork braised for five days with herbs and served with Veneto region peppery cold pressed olive oil.
1st Course: 2021 White Piemonte, Le Chiusure Erbaluce di Caluso. Donkey tartar, crispy fried chicory on top, cream made of anchovies, garlic, and vinegar.
-Bread is house made focaccia, bread swirl with Pecorino Romano, and breadsticks.
2nd Course: 2019 Latour Civitella , aged in French oak for three years. Chickpeas three ways. Sauce, chickpeas whole with rosemary, chickpea puree with lime zest and black truffles.
3rd Course: 2022 Capichera Vermentino In Purezza, a Sardinian wine. Ravioli stuffed with spaghetti, parsley, olive oil emulsion, and garlic. A clam reduction is the sauce.
4th Course: 2022 Mosel Heinrichshof Schlossberg Trocken riesling. First, water that has been fermented for two days with Sorrento lemon. Spaghetti is cooked in it. Served with smoked provolone cheese and saffron.
5th Course: 2021 Penfolds Bin Shiraz. Baccalau cod that was braised with buffala cream under, wilted lettuce leaves, creamed Ventricchio salumi from d’Abruzzo.
6th Course: 2015 Barbaresco Santa Stefano (23 vineyards share Nebbiolo grapes on six hectares of the Santo Stefano DOC designation). Beef tongue braised in milk for two days for softening, pan fried for the sear. Braised greens from South Italy on top and a tangerine coulis on the side.
7th Course: Moscato d’Asti-Zagara by Marchesi di Barolo. Ricotta filled pastry with caramel, chocolate nibs, and sauce.
8th Course: Mini donut with lemon curd on the bottom, sweet bread tear-a-way, and lime butter.
An exceptional meal made and served by talented professionals. We were glad for the experience and we did not feel overfull, but still glad we were a short way from our place. 14.1km and 13 flights walked.
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