Waking, packing, showering, Nespresso coffee, packing, delicious full breakfast, more packing, and loading the car…it was time to move.
On the drive to Cape Spear, Canada’s most Eastern point, I observed that the terrain is like New Brunswick: hilly, dense forests, and a tough to maintain road system. The difference is the short height of the trees (five to seven feet) and how close they are to the road (a few feet rather than ten). At least they are when growing close to shore. The speed limit of 30km/hr seemed really low, but made sense in the context of one very big thing: moose! With the dense woods, proximity of the woods to the roadway, and lumbering masses of moose you need enough of a warning before stopping in time. So if you come to Newfoundland, follow the guidance on the speed signs.
At Cape Spear, from 1836 to 1997, there has been a people-maintained lighthouse here. From 1846 to 1955 it was five generations of Cantwell’s that were here doing the job. During WW2 there were two large guns and AA emplacements to protect St. John’s harbour, a short distance away. There is a large ship’s mast by the lighthouse keeper’s house so that flags could be raised to signal the folks in Cabot Tower on Signal Hill. Then they could let the people of St. John's be aware of ships coming.
Along the shore, the beauty of the plants was nice to see and would have provided comfort to those who stayed here. As long as they were not covered in snow, that is.
After it was made into a National park in 1997, the lighthouse keeper’s dwelling was turned back in time to 1839. We were told that a total of one-hundred and sixty-eight layers of wallpaper were removed to get down to the wood. The company who made the original wallpaper was able to create a reproduction of the original when the area was turned into a historical park.
From Cape Spear we drove back to nearby Petty Harbour to see the picturesque village and have a coffee for the road.
The highway was like those in New Brunswick: long and straight, lots of general sameness, and trees that block the side views. The only breaks in the terrain were what you saw ahead of you in the distance. Fortunately, the scrub, shrubs, lichen, and moss types changed. This is good for keeping the mind alert and active. There were not a lot of places to stop for food along the highway, so we ate scones from our B&B and some Hornby bars.
Near Clarenville we stopped at Sully’s gas station/market/liquor store/Robin’s Donuts for a bathroom break and to stretch our legs. This was one of your ‘everything’ stores providing items used by the surrounding community. The liquor section was particularly interesting with some fruit wines and a maple syrup wine. They also had Prince Igor extreme pickle flavoured vodka and Newfoundland Port.
Leaving Sully’s, we messaged our friends K&A and soon after we left the highway on the #205. The road, as warned, was in a degraded state and had potholes in cracks in other potholes…there were a lot of potholes. Speed was accordingly slow and after twenty minutes we arrived in the community of Saint Jones Within.
Made up of 72 permanent residents, and swelling by 40-50 in the summer months, the dominant feature was the harbour. Boats of all sizes with colourful stages (sheds) were selectively scattered around. Within seconds we pulled up to our friend’s place and greeted them with joy.
After bringing our luggage in, and getting a tour of their place, we chit-chatted and had supper. We then went on a walk to the community centre, new kids park, and back again. Near their place, we were asked what our shoe sizes were. We needed rubber boots for some activities. Seeing that one of their neighbours was home and cooking something outside, we approached and asked about borrowing two pairs. We were also offered some freshly fried cod and potato wedges. Yummy.
Time was ticking and the day was long. We said goodnight to the neighbours and thanked them for the boots to borrow and the food given.
At our friend's place we continued to catch up until the temptation of sleep crept into our bodies and we said our goodnights. 6.5km walked and 27 flights of stairs climbed.
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