04 Aug: A view for a Smallwood head, the People who were lost, and staying inside a textile woven gate

Two-night roadtrip! First stop was outside of Gambo at a lookout for Joey, aka Joseph R. Joey Smallwood.

With an early life in news, campaign managing for the Prime Minister of Newfoundland (under the British), and hosting a radio program for six years he decided to run a pig farm at the Gander airfield. In 1946 he became part of the Newfoundland National Convention to recommend options for the future of the province as he pushed for joining Canada. His past skills in broadcasting led to a very strong rural vote for joining Confederation in 1948. He became the province's Liberal party leader in 1949 and was elected Premier the same year becoming Premier of Newfoundland for the next 23 years. After retiring, he wrote two autobiographies and his Encyclopedia of Newfoundland and Labrador was completed after his death in 1991. Here there were nice views of Freshwater Bay, Gambo River, and the Newfoundland T’railway (a hiking trail that replaced the rail line and goes from St. John’s to the West side of Newfoundland near Port aux Basques; 890km). 

Near Gander we stopped at the Thomas Howe Demonstration Forest, named after the Province’s first Chief Woods Ranger, for a sandwich lunch and short walk. Many trees, undergrowth, and wee beasties were present, including a 90-year-old White Spruce with above ground curly-fry shaped roots. Some trees had odd growths where the branch sprouted tiny branches everywhere. K mentioned it was a type of tree cancer and often held bird nests. The intricate design was mesmerizing.

Taking a right turn at Gander and continuing down the road, for an hour or so, we took a stretch and pee break. By the shore there was a river boat with a long hull, narrow sides, and shallow flat bottom. K&A said it looked like a good design and they would know from their knowledge of boat designs of different families. Some Newfoundland companies have purchased limited rights to some designs and make molds to manufacture fibreglass versions.

A short distance South of our two-night accommodations is the Beothuk Centre. I’ll let the Centre’s website explain what they are: “Around 300 years ago, this site in Boyd’s Cove in Notre Dame Bay was a Beothuk village. Tour the interpretation centre where exhibits and artifacts foster an appreciation for this unique, and now vanished culture. From the interpretation centre, follow a 1.5 km groomed walking trail to the village site – today an outline of housepits is the only evidence of the Beothuk people who once lived here. Along the trail, a sculpture designed by renowned Newfoundland artist Gerald Squires evokes the tragedy of the Beothuks’ demise.”

The Beothunk’s were a First Nation that entered Newfoundland around 1CE and had three cultural changes before becoming the Beothunk culture around 1500. They lived in small extended family groups that lived in seasonal villages. They were known to use red ochre to paint themselves and most of what they used, reapplying once a year in the spring. The Beothunk avoided interacting with Europeans as most meetings led to injury, death, and/or anger. Pressure from the European settlers, Inuit, and Mi’kmaq had them retreat further inland where resources were more scarce. Two Beothunk women captured by Europeans in 1819 and 1823, Desmaduit and Shanawdithit (Desmaduit’s niece), taught some of their language and provided drawings of their culture as a way for Europeans to understand the Beothunk peoples. At this point the Beothuk peoples were in decline, due to Smallpox/TB/violent interactions. After Shanawdithit died in 1829, and no more Beothunk were found, the Beothunk were declared extinct yet there is evidence that some Beothunk may have integrated into Inuit, Mi’Kmaw, and European communities.

The trail walk to the Beothunk camp site was shaded and very pleasant, with American toads and dragonflies in abundance. On the walk back I enjoyed looking at an interesting rock with mossy blankets. After returning to the Centre, and using the washroom, K and I went to the Spirit Garden that was made to honour the Beothunk and others who have passed away into history. In the Centre you can get a bag of items to make a token, free of charge, and hang it here. In the garden, the combined feelings of loss and the strength to persevere were present.

In front of the Centre, I almost stepped onto an American toad on the wooden walkway. After pointing it out to an attendant, who was walking the perimeter, she scooped it up and placed it into the woods.

Arriving in North Twillingate, at the Hi Tides Hostel, we briefly unpacked before walking around to explore the active and colourful town. We saw a fishing boat returning to its harbour, two pet goats in a yard, and several shops for art, conveyance, food and drink. 

After supper was made in the hostel we relaxed then went to bed. 9.8km walked and 14 flights climbed.