Spain Day 02-Panther, Birds, Streets, and the Prado

 Day two we had a light breakfast at Panther Organic Coffee, just beside our hotel. It became our regular breakfast place while staying here the first time. It represents a typical Spanish breakfast: coffee with milk (Cafe con leche), orange juice (jugo de naranja), and bread with tomatoes and olive oil.

We then walked to the Prado art museum, one of the premier art museums of Europe. Along the way there was trees in bloom.

You also can get a glimpse of budgies flying around greenspace areas. These little loud birds were also collecting twigs to build nests.

The streets become less pedestrian only as you head away from Puerta del Sol. 

At the Prado there is art from the 12th century to early in the 20th century, the core of which was the Spanish Royal collection. Opened to the public in 1919, it has works by Goya, El Greco, Titian, Rubens, Bosch, and Velazquez amongst other great artists. Over a thousand works are on display at any one time and the museum gets over a million visitors a year. Although the museum's cafeteria was expensive it saved us time to look for a place outside for lunch and looking at great art. There are no photos of the art allowed, so it was also nice to walk through and enjoy looking at works that we liked without having folks do a drive by picture taking. Their gift and book shop is extensive but the good books were too big for our large backpacks.

They also had nice statues outside with stone sculptures of the artist's works on the base. 

For supper we had some tapas and drinks at two establishments along a row of tapas restaurants near the Prado. They were all low key but there was one that we left before getting anything. The establishment was large with locals and tourists and the menu was in multiple languages (first warning). When we placed an order the waiter said they only had two dishes and we needed to choose one of those (second warning) when we saw locals with many different dishes. 

That was when we noticed that La Taberna de la Daniela was open when it was earlier closed. The lunches in Spain start mid afternoon, the main meal of the day, but suppers start later with many establishments only opening/reopening 8pm or later. Inside we were advised to try the Cocido Madrileno, a chickpea soup with all kinds of meats and vegetables that is a Madrid tradition. We were not aware of how it was to be eaten as later research shows you add the ingredients to your bowl and add the soup to mix as you like. It seemed a little overpriced but this place, also with later research, is THE place in Madrid to order this dish if not making it yourself. It was a hearty and interesting meal.

Then it was time for bed, after first passing through Puerta del Sol and seeing the iconic Tio Pepe sign.

Spain Day 01b-Walkabout Continued and Devour Tour

We continued wandering after our meal. Plaza de la Villa was the plaza for the town hall and is now a pleasant thoroughfare. 

We then came upon the Cathedral of Almudena. When the capitol of Spain was moved from Toledo to Madrid a cathedral was promised by the monarch but other things took priority. The cathedral was started in 1883 and completed in 1993. It was built on the site of a mosque that was destroyed in 1083.

The bronze doors were huge and filled with lots of detail.

The Royal Palace of Madrid was just next door to the cathedral. It was built on the site of a Moorish fortress which burnt down, was rebuilt, burnt down again after expansions and renovations, then the current structure was completed in 1755. I has had additions and renovations twice since. It is the largest royal palace in Europe. It is open for tourists but we did not go this time in Spain.

The Plaza de Oriente is another nice area for people to congregate or saunter through.

We took a break at Helederia Bajocero, an ice cream and hot chocolate shop. We each had the Spanish chocolate which is nice and thick.

We then carried on with our walkabout. Each new street and alleyway had its own uniqueness. 

In the evening we had booked a four hour history and tapas tour with Devour. It was our first time using this company for a tour and Issac, our guide, was an exceptional host. We went to a variety of places for some lessons on Spanish and Madrid history mixed in with some tasty delights in a variety of places...including Maison de Champinon! It was delightful and entertaining.

Issac even timed our tour with a wonderful viewpoint for a sunset.

Spain Day 00 and 01a-Arrival and Walkabout

After we arrived in Spain it was late at night. Below is a picture of the inside of Madrid airport terminal four. Very nice architecture. It is also the second largest airport in Europe but only the sixth busiest and this terminal was finished in 2006.

After waking up we became familiar with the local area. This included a visit to Puerta del Sol, the center of Madrid and Spain. It was at the entrance of one of the gates of the city walls but as the city grew around it. In 2020 it became pedestrianized except for delivery traffic. There was some improvements being made on the square while we were there.

Our stop in Puerta del Sol also included a second breakfast to La Mallorquina, on the Western side of the square. Since 1894 this establishment has been serving coffee, pastries, and sweets to visitors. 

They have over the counter and stand up bar service on the main level and a sit down cafe upstairs. We had two fish savory pies and two sweet delights along with our coffee at the stand up bar. It was constantly busy by mostly locals.

We then began a Rick Steves walk from his guidebook. His walks always offer a bit of history, culture, and sights you may want to pop into for a look see or longer. We were quite impressed at how pedestrianized the core of Madrid was.

It seemed like on every street there was one or more cured ham sellers and for good reason. After the Reconquista in 1492, when Spanish King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella took the last of the land controlled by the Moors, the Inquisition loomed large over people's lives. Eating ham was one of the ways to prove you were not a Moor. The most common food items in bars and Spanish restaurants still seems to be cured ham of varying quality, from pressed ham to acorn fed luxury ham.

One of the other major square in the core of Madrid is the Plaza Mayor. In the 15th century it was used for the main market, executions and burnings, bullfights, and is now home to many tourists and on Sundays coin and stamp collectors.

For a break we thought this tapas bar would be good for a lunch. Maison de Champinon would end up being part of two more meals during our stay in Madrid. 

As we learned before our trip, standing at the bar means a lower price than at a table inside which is lower than a table outside. This is in the form of a service added charge for the wait staff required depending on where you sit. It also generally means faster service at a bar vice a table and in Europe when you have a table you stay as long as you want. Remember though that you should never order at a bar then take it to a table.

We had Padron peppers, Iberian cured ham amongst other cured pork items, and Manchego cheese. 

We were quite full and was going to order the mushrooms with Iberian ham inside but decided not to. We mentioned that to the waiter and he quickly came by with a free tapas of mushrooms. Tapas are small bites and we were reminded of what we should have done: order a drink to get a free tapas. Most establishments, when you come in and order a drink for each person in your group, will give you a free tapas. In this case we got it at the end of the meal. BTW, with the mushroom tapas you have to hold the toothpicks like bulls horns and bring it to your mouth carefully, then remove the toothpicks once the mushroom is in your mouth. Yummy.

The day will continue in 01b.

L'Apero Wine and Cheese Bistro

My wife and I went to the  L'Apero Wine and Cheese Bistro to try it out. We were definitely impressed. The serve various wine and cheese, of course, but also specialize in raclette full and lunch meals. They sell some meats, cheeses, sandwiches, and other specials too.

We were here for Dine Around Victoria so we chose a special item they had, fondue. The starter was a cabbage, candied walnut, and sliced cheese with a little vinaigrette.

Then came the fondue! Look at the wonderful spread. The cheese was just enough for us both and was good to the last dollop. All the ingredients on the board were excellent. 

We will be coming back again.

Frankie’s Organic Clouds

As a nice light snack these puffed clouds (made from corn, brown rice, and quinoa) from Frankie’s Organic are tasty. Advise you stop after a cereal bowl full because you may go through the bag before you know it. Low in fat and sodium.

Mary Brown’s Chicken

 I heard of the Mary Brown's Chicken chain of eateries that started in Newfoundland, Canada. Most of the acclaim came from Newfoundlanders themselves. I decided to give them a try.

The bun is slightly above average, in that it is fluffy. The excellent taste comes from the burger itself. The crispness of the outer layer, without it being greasy, is great and the meat is cooked throughout without being dry. 

They come in different flavours and heat levels. I would also recommend the fried pickles as an interesting side. I like the contrast of fried outside and slightly vinegary pickle taste inside. I would come here again.

Simply Gum - Lime and Chile flavor

I saw this brand of gum at Whole Foods while picking up a lunch and thought I would give them a try. It is definitely an experience with a little tartness mixed with the warmth from the ingredients.