Feelings of the Day: “Plans are useless, but planning is indispensable”. Eisenhower was an excellent WW2 General for planning, because he wanted to ensure there were options already considered if the primary plan failed. It saves precious minutes realigning the trajectory of an army. I was not nor am now a General, but I always thought of contingencies when possible. Preplanning, when you have time, saves time later. It is never wasted.
Full Day’s Events: Sleeping for a long time, with no gaps, was a good thing last night. I took another cold recovery powder, ate oatmeal, had a shower, and read/wrote some more. After a salad lunch I was feeling 80%, with no nasal drips, so I went to the Correr museum. Noted for its interior, art, furniture, and history of Venice, I was looking forward to it.
Nope. I missed the gondola by a week, so to speak. Now that we were in tourist season you could only get into the Correr with a combined ticket for 30 euros (25 if bought 30 days or more in advance) instead of the 14-euro ticket it normally is. Also, in that combined ticket you have to indicate when your entry times are. Nope. Instead, I went to the dense living of Dorsoduro district and wandered around, seeing what I could see, before going to two places, beside one another, that were on my list.
First up, Sculao Sant Rocco. Funded by wealthy Venetians as a confraternity, for charitable or religious works, it started being built in 1515 and went through four architect/project managers before it was finished in 1560. A patron of music, many composers and performers were funded by the confraternity. There are also many works by Tintoretto at the ground level with HUGE canvases. It was a pleasure to stand and admire each one, for as long as it took, examining the technique and brushwork.
Upstairs there were some works by Titian and Palma il Giovane, along with more Tintoretto works in the Sala dell’Albergo.
The other art that greatly interested me were the allegorical wooden sculptures of different trades, at face level, along the side walls. The light hearted, yet precise handwork, had me immensely impressed. Superb craftsmanship. I’m glad I didn’t go to the Correr but I’m sure they had other good things there.
Within a small stone's throw was the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa del Frari.This largest church in Venice is Gothic Franciscan and has traditional and odd tombs done in a grand style.
They were also the most artful tombs I had seen, tied with the Church of Saint Peter in Chains in Rome. As with most churches in Venice, many artists were commissioned for works inside it. Present were two glorious altarpieces by Titian, and works by Vivarini and Licinio. Also present were sculptures by Donatello, Bellini, Veneziano, Vicentino, Palma il Giovani, Salviati, and a monument for the Tomb of Tizzano. A notable place to see.
There was also an amazing small wooden clock with intricate carvings of figures and scenes. I ended looking at it for a long time marvelling at the detail.
Wanting a change of pace for supper, I was rewarded by looking closer at a place across the thin canal from the Basilica. It was a Greek and Mediterranean establishment called Frary’s, owned and run by women, that was on my list of restaurants that interested me. I’m glad I chose it this evening because it was THE best Middle Eastern meal I have had outside the Middle East. I started with a flavourful platter of different appetizers, of standard items, and the main of lamb stew made my heart sing while reminding me of memorable meals I had in Dubai, UAE and Muscat, Oman.
Heading back home I was still feeling at 80%, which meant the day didn’t exhaust me like the previous days. For tomorrow’s planned exploration I had to be at 90%, or better. Time for a cold fighting powder, shower, and early night. 7km, 7 flights, 9 previously crossed and 8 new bridges walked.
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