Feelings of the Day: Chasing after what is popular can leave you behind. I’ve seen folks in museums, art galleries, historical sites, and in natural surroundings rushing to see only the “big” things. Sometimes I have even seen them not spend a second to look at what they are standing near before snapping a picture or selfie and rushing away to the next “big” thing. I like the unknown histories, the lesser-known objects and art, and the corners of places. I like to stroll at my own pace. I advise you to seek out your interests, be yourself, and slow down while enjoying where you are.
Full Day’s Events: After my last starch filled breakfast at my accommodations, and some diary writing, it was time to leave Almazan. Bringing my luggage - suitcase, huge backpack, Cotopaxi backpack, CPAP machine, and bag of food - down two flights was interesting, but manageable. Coaxing the load down cobblestone streets and brick sidewalks was a troublesome endeavour. Both were managed within the 15 minutes I had calculated several days earlier.
Once I was nearing the bus station I could see RJGM on a lengthy bench outside. The sun was shining and we chatted as more people arrived singly or in groups. Soon the bus arrived, R&J checked with the driver that this was the bus we were to take, and we loaded our luggage in the ample storage underneath. We all shuffled in, got items out of our bags that we would be using on the ride, and sat down in our well-cushioned seats. It was time for my last destination in Europe for this trip…Madrid.
According to the online schedule, there were to be 22 stops along back roads and through small towns. What we didn’t know is that those “stops” mostly ended up being “slightly slow down and if nobody at the stop then accelerate to high speed again”. In total I think we only stopped three times to pick up or drop off people. I read for the first half hour but, as always, the movement made me sleepy. I got up to use the onboard washroom, while the bus was moving fast and taking turns like a very big lumbering race car, and it reminded me of being back onboard a ship with a sea state between four and six. It brought back amusing memories that made me smile.
After I returned to my seat I dozed off for 45 minutes, ate a Hornby bar, then resumed reading. At the scheduled time we entered the outskirts of Madrid and before long we slowed down. A lot. Then the front of the bus tipped down. Way down. Forty-five degrees down. We were going underground.
From 1979 to 86, Enrique Tierno Galván was mayor of Madrid and the first left leaning mayor since before the Franco government took power. Among the many things he had done for the people of Madrid was to construct underground traffic tunnels and promote public transit, which freed up streets and squares for pedestrians again. For the tunnels built, and continue to be built, the Mayor of Madrid is always nicknamed, “The Mole”. This tiny tunnel we were entering was only for buses to enter the main bus station, at the Avenue of the Americas two levels down.
Once we stopped, retrieved our bags, and reached the surface it was no problem to get transportation to our accommodations. Fortunately, we were permitted to check in early and after a quick unpack we went to the Mercado San Antón to eat. Unfortunately, it had gotten more touristy and pricier since R&J lived near here for three months, over a decade ago. With a few steps we went to a place that had not changed for them, Bar Fermentaria, which serves Baleric cuisine from a Spanish Mediterranean island chain off Barcelona. With lots of tasty bites, kitchen delights, and a satisfied crowd of people this seemed like a great place. We ordered sandwiches to go, so that we could eat at RJGM’s apartment, and discuss what we were going to do. Many of us ordered the spicy trempo (tomato, green pepper, onion, tuna and piparra), which was delicious.
The main thing everyone wanted to do was to walk, but they wanted to do so in different places. I chose the wonderful, and close by, Reitero park. One of the largest parks in Madrid, at 350 acres, it was a royal park from 1680 (with many improvements) until given to the people in 1868. Full of ponds, paths, public buildings, and lots of flora it is enjoyed by locals and visitors alike. Natalie and I spent most of a day here two years ago and thoroughly liked it. It was a relaxing and joyous zigzag stroll through the shady lanes and open areas that had different objects or activities for people to enjoy. It was fun to wander.
After an hour, I returned and passed by robust stalls set up for the 18-day long book fair. Each booth had wares from different used book stores or private sellers with a cornucopia of items available. Some items were cheap and others had collectors' prices. I nearly bought a Spanish language edition of the 1979 giant Star Wars comic, but I would not have been able to keep it intact and it would have been an impulse purchase.
We gathered and relaxed until the restaurant, El Social, opened at 8pm. Here we enjoyed fresh bread and tapenade, wrapped shrimp, seafood ceviche, a huge fried pork belly with fries, flank steak with chimichurri sauce, and slow roasted ribs with bourbon sauce.
With a slow walk back to digest our wonderful meal we passed by interesting signs and graffiti as well as some places R&J frequented during their previous long stay here. 8.6 km and 17 flights walked.
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