Feelings of the day: I was like Freddy Mercury when I was younger. Yes, I had pronounced teeth but that’s not what I mean. No, I couldn’t sing very well. It was that I wanted something. Yes, I wanted to ride my bicycle and break free. No, I wasn’t wanting to make a supersonic man out of you, but super speed would be a cool power. What I wanted, like Freddy Mercury, was “it all”. I rushed around when travelling, desperate to see everything when our ship pulled into port, because there was limited time to spend there because of the requirements of the ship. That feeling of wanting to rush extended to my vacations. Everything was pre planned for the entire time I, and my wife, were awake. But no more of that nonsense. Life needs to be experienced at the speed it wants to be experienced, not what I demand it should be. If some things are missed at least I will enjoy what I did see, not as a check in the box but as a moment to remember. I’m glad I’m changing what I want.
Full Day’s Events: An early start today, since I decided to finish all the bridges I could for Venice and see one last section that was off my map, Eastern Saint Helena Island. Home to the Augustinian monks, who built the first structure here, in 1028 the church and grounds were reconsecrated in 1928 for the Servite order. It is also home to a military base, Venice Arsenal soccer club, and a marina.
I also missed two bridges on the way there, in the scratches of red marks I made on my map. Leaving at ~0640, I wanted to beat the heat and tourist rush. By 0712, I had finished the two stragglers and at 0727 I was on the final five. Walking around the Eastern half of West Saint Helena, I found it nicely green with tall trees and nice large apartment/condo buildings. I also saw a few groups and dog walkers so now I knew this area had some sort of population, unlike the previous day I was here where it seemed like a ghost town.
The bridge, where the military base was, ended at its gate. As I walked over, I could see the guard look up from whatever they were holding in the booth. They must have found it a little strange when I placed both feet on the solid ground on his side and simply returned back across the bridge.
The next bridge, going West to East, was for a path on the Islands’ West side, going North and South. Taking that path I walked past the Venice Arsenal small stadium, with graffiti on its side, to the East to see the church and monastery of the Servite order of monks. The cloister looked nice, lush, and well-tended. To the North of it was a gate and a nice older structure, owned by the Venice yacht club, that looked exclusive and exclusive.
Continuing over two bridges, I found myself in front of the last bridge I was allowed to pass over. The ones I didn’t cross on this trip had polite signs saying residents only or full gates barring my way. While facing this last bridge, at my back was the gate to access the docks of the marina. Before me was this very wide wooden bridge, with four supports going into the water, heading towards Western Saint Helena Island and the rest of Venice. It would be my 355th different bridge and my 370th different bridge in the entire Venetian lagoon.
It was fitting, walking slowly across at 0740am, that it felt like I was retiring again for other adventures. Reflecting that I would not have had this opportunity to visit Venice for two weeks on my own if I wasn’t retired, it was a validation of that choice. It felt very good.
Stopping at a cafe, for a reward of a cappuccino, pastry, and a bano, I then started wandering on the way back. I visited the outside of the Arsenale, now free of rushing folks, stopped at the viewpoint for the Bridge of Sighs, looked at the outside of the Doge’s palace, and stood in the middle of Saint Marco’s square.
Because I was WAY ahead of my loose schedule, and my final pack would not take long, I visited another old place I had kind of been at before…the Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo aka the spiral staircase palace. Built in 1499, it has been visitable since renovation work ended in 2016. My wife and I stood looking up at it 14 years ago, in its little campo accessed through a small alley. Now I was there again and felt I could climb it, but not now and for a good reason: It was 0830 am and it didn’t open for an hour. Back to my place for some packing and travel diary writing.
Returning, people were already starting to trickle in. The walk to the 2nd floor (3rd floor in NA) was fine, as long as I stuck to the centre support, and when looking out my eyes only looked to the horizon. At that part way up level there was a large room with a modern art exhibition from one artist. Also, a large Tintorello canvas of “The Paradise” called me over from the far side of the first room, which was an astounding work and a surprise to see here.
Continuing up, I was seeing more of the rooftops and skyline of Venice. The covered viewing area took my breath away with how far I could see around me. Because the horizon was hidden by buildings, the feeling I got on that high place was an endless Venice. The waves of rooftops formed a surreal tide with famous buildings as sturdy ships, church spires as landmark cliffs, and clock towers as lighthouses of time. I loved it and I had the viewing area completely to myself. Taking out my cell I started snapping pictures. I then used Natalie's skookum zoom camera, which was great for capturing the city's distant treasures, on this last full day in Venice.
Once I finished, and after gazing at the view some more, others started trickling up. I then started focusing on the sounds of the city I could hear. The vaporettos, the gondoliers, garbage and cargo boats, a low hum of Venetians under the dull roar of exuberant visitors speaking different languages. Venice is a unique and powerful place. I have tried to see all of its extremities that are not sought out by those who are from elsewhere. I have tried to see it as a complete city and not an amusement park. I think I have been successful and am glad I traveled here, for a second time, with this mindset.
Heading back to my place I walked slowly. I had my final lunch, packed most of everything, did research on the Venice airport, and worked on my travel diary.
Supper was eaten at an intimidating place, because it was always very busy even though it was very close by, Rosticceria Gislon. I used my translation app to decipher the menu and instructions. The sequence is you order from the counter, pay, then wait for it to be cooked in the kitchens (which are across a thin passage), then given to you, and finally you sit to eat it. Just like every lunch and night it was busy, but I managed to find a table once I got my clam pasta (pasta alle vongole). It was the best clam pasta I had ever had and now, on my last night, I realized I should have been bolder in eating here more often. Next time.
When I was about finished, a Japanese couple were figuring out the process on the menu with their own app, and looking for a table. I indicated that they could sit at mine and she asked what I was having as he was interested. While the lady went to order, I asked the gent when they got here and he said today. They were to have a whirlwind tour of Italy. Everything was planned during the daytime and they were very tired. I wished them a good trip and left to go to my place for an early night.
I’m glad I am no longer in a rush to see everything in fast forward. Sure, I only have a set amount of time left on this Earth, but that time is not predetermined. Moments need to be relished and savoured before moving to the next one. Moments can also occur by happenstance and accident. The last six weeks have reinforced that viewpoint. Only three and a half weeks to go. 9.1km, 16 flights of stairs, 11 previously closed bridges, and 7 new bridges.
No comments:
Post a Comment